THE FRENCH-STYLE ICE CREAM
With chocolate, cocoa powder, milk, cream, sugar, and egg yolks.
This is a Classic Chocolate Ice Cream recipe, which means that we use both chocolate AND cocoa powder. Although you can make chocolate ice cream by using only cocoa powder or only chocolate, there is nothing like combining the two together.
A French-style ice cream contains egg yolks cooked with milk over the stovetop to make a custard. Making a custard is a little tricky but worth the effort for the velvety ice cream it creates.
Here are 3 more ways to make this Classic Chocolate Ice Cream:
PLAIN & PERFECT. This easy version uses the fewest ingredients, and relies on some extra heavy cream as the key to its rich, creamy texture. (Also known as “Philadelphia-style,” but it does not contain cream cheese.) With chocolate, cocoa powder, milk, cream, sugar.
OUR FAVOURITE. Inspired by Sicilian ice cream, we use cornstarch to thicken the base while keeping it light in heavy cream. With chocolate, cocoa powder, milk, cream, sugar, cornstarch.
OUR SIGNATURE ICE CREAM. A modern approach using a small amount of xanthan gum for a smooth, stable gelato texture. Simple to master and effortless to repeat — once you’ve made it, you’ll never need another recipe again.With chocolate, cocoa powder, milk, cream, sugar, xanthan gum.
or see:
Do not reduce or replace anything; everything is there for a reason.
• Unsweetened cocoa powder: any unsweetened cocoa powder will do. Use your favourite unsweetened cocoa powder, or choose a cocoa powder judging by its aroma.
Dutch-processed cocoa is a good choice for it has a rich flavour and colour, but you can also use natural cocoa powder or raw cacao powder.
• Sugar: you can use regular sugar (white granulated sugar) or a raw cane sugar such as Demerara or Turbinado, which enhances the chocolate’s flavour.
Do not use any other sugar or sweetener, natural or artificial, liquid or powder, like honey, stevia, golden syrup, table sweeteners, confectioner’s sugar, etc.
• Milk: use whole milk; this has approx. 3,5% fat. Do not substitute with skimmed milk (lower fat) or non-dairy milk. You need both the fat, milk proteins, and lactose for this ice cream recipe.
• Heavy cream (for double cream read next): For this recipe, you can use heavy cream with 35% and up to 36% fat content. It is also OK to use heavy cream suitable for whipping or ultra-pasteurised cream, if it has the right fat content (35-36% fat). Do not use low-fat or non-dairy cream, the ice cream will be icy.
This is a quick overview of the recipe. If you are new to ice cream making, do read the recipe before proceeding.
Bring the heavy cream to a boil; remove from the heat and add the cocoa powder, stirring to dissolve.
Add the chopped chocolate; blend until smooth, then pour into a large heatproof bowl.
Make the custard: warm the milk the sugar and pour it over the egg yolks, whisking them vigorously.
Pour back into the saucepan and cook over medium heat, constantly stirring, until it slightly thickens.
Remove from the heat and pour the custard over a fine-mesh sieve and into the chocolate cream.
Cool it down over an ice bath.
Chill the ice cream mixture overnight or until completely cold.
Churn in your ice cream maker until fluffed up and creamy.
Put it in the freezer for a few hours to set.
As soon as it sets, you can either serve it from the ice cream maker bowl or transfer to a container and store it in the freezer.
When making ice cream, prefer to weigh all the ingredients, even the liquid ones. We also recommend – whenever possible – to weigh the liquid ingredients directly into the bowl/pan as you proceed with the recipe instead of transferring them from one bowl to another because this transfer causes a small -but unwanted- loss of quantity.
If you do not have a kitchen scale, follow these guidelines:
• 1 cup (US) = 237 ml | 1 tablespoon = 15 ml
• sugar: measuring sugar in tablespoons is more accurate than measuring it in cups. Use a 15 ml measuring tablespoon (not a regular one); this is 13 gr of sugar. To measure correctly, each time you scoop the sugar, level it with the flat side of a knife.
• chocolate/couverture: measuring chocolate in cups is not possible because measurements vary depending on how finely chopped the chocolate is. Instead, you can estimate the number of chocolate pieces you need based on the weight of the chocolate bar as written on the packaging.
• milk and heavy cream: thoroughly scrape with a rubber spatula any residues left on the sides and bottom of the cup every time you measure something and empty it.
Note that the quantities in each measuring system (grams, ounces, and cups) in our recipes may not always be accurate conversions; any deviations in conversions you may notice do not affect the outcome.
This recipe makes a 1.2 litre/quart ice cream mixture (before churning), perfect for ice cream makers with a capacity of 1.5 and up to 2 litres/quarts (like Cuisinart ice cream makers).
If you need to scale the ice cream mixture up or down, use this ratio of the ingredients (in weight only):
milk 43.3% / heavy cream 23.9% / sugar 14.6 % / 70-74% cocoa solids chocolate 10.1% / egg yolks 6.5% / cocoa powder 1.6%
in desired total weight of ice cream mixture.
For example, if you want to make 1000 g (approx. 1 litre) of ice cream mixture, you need:
• 1000 g x 43.3% = 433 g milk
• 1000 g x 23.9% = 239 g heavy cream
• 1000 g x 14.6% = 146 g sugar
• 1000 g x 10.1% = 101 g chocolate 70-74%
• 1000 g x 6.5% = 65 g egg yolks
• 1000 g x 1.6% = 16 g cocoa powder
You can combine double cream with whole milk to make heavy cream for this recipe.
To make 295 g (10.4 oz) heavy cream, stir together:
The resulting heavy cream has 36% fat, perfect for this ice cream. Proceed with the recipe just as if you had the 295 g (10.4 oz) heavy cream needed.
A flexible rubber spatula is good for:
-wiping the bottom of the saucepan when you cook dairy on the stovetop.
-scraping residues from bowls, saucepans etc.
If you do not have one, we strongly encourage you to buy one, preferably a flexible one.
The ice cream mixture needs to cool completely before churning, so prepare it in advance (approx. 8 hours before) to give it time to chill in the refrigerator.
If your ice cream maker has a removable freezer bowl, put it in the freezer for the whole time indicated by the manufacturer before churning, usually 24 hours.
Place a rubber spatula and a whisk on a plate next to the stovetop to have them ready to use interchangeably.
Sift the cocoa powder (20 g; 0.7 oz) through a fine-mesh sieve and into a small bowl if you haven’t already done so.
Warm the heavy cream with the cocoa powder: in a medium saucepan, put the heavy cream (295 g; 10.4 oz) and the cocoa powder. Warm over medium heat, often whisking until the cocoa dissolves and the cream is hot and very steamy. Do not let it come to a boil. Remove from the heat.
Add the chocolate and stir to melt it.
Blend with an immersion blender for 30 seconds or until no brown clumps are visible, pausing once to scrape the bottom and sides of the saucepan with the rubber spatula. Pour into a heatproof bowl. Alternatively, you can use a regular blender: pour the warm heavy cream into the blender jug, add the chocolate and blend. Leave the chocolate cream in the blender jug.
Place a fine-mesh sieve over the bowl/blender jug.
Prepare the egg yolks: put the egg yolks (4 egg yolks) in a medium heatproof bowl, and whisk them lightly to break them down. Set the bowl next to the stovetop.
Warm the milk and the sugar: place the milk (535 g; 18.9 oz) and the sugar (180 g; 6.3 oz) in a medium saucepan (you can use the same saucepan you boiled the cream in; no
need to rinse it). Warm over medium heat, often stirring, until the sugar dissolves.
Temper the egg yolks: when all the sugar dissolves and the milk is hot and steamy, remove it from the heat and slowly ladle roughly half of the warm milk over the egg yolks with one hand while whisking them vigorously with the other hand to temper them.
Cook until thickened: pour the tempered yolks & milk back into the saucepan and over medium-high heat. Cook, constantly stirring with a rubber spatula and scraping the bottom of the saucepan to prevent the custard from scalding. Maintain a medium temperature, do not let it come to a boil. Remove from the heat when the custard starts to thicken (82ºC / 179 ºF / when it thickens to coat the back of a spoon / when you tilt the saucepan, a layer of thickened custard appears to form on the bottom).
Pour the custard through the fine-mesh sieve and into the chocolate cream.
Blend briefly to combine. If using a regular blender, pour the mixture into a bowl.
Cool it down: prepare an ice bath by putting the bowl with the ice cream mixture into a larger bowl and filling the empty sides with ice cubes and cold water. How many ice cubes? You will need two trays of ice cubes (approx. 400 g; 14 oz of ice) to bring the ice cream mixture to room temperature. Let the ice cream mixture cool down for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Chill until completely cold: cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least 8 hours and up to 3 days. This time is also necessary for a custard-based ice cream to mature and its flavours to develop, so do not rush the cooling process.
Check if the ice cream mixture is cold before churning it: 4ºC–12ºC / 39ºF-54ºF / it feels fridge-cold when you place your finger into it.
Prepare the ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Blend before churning: briefly blitz the ice cream mixture with an immersion blender, stopping once to scrape down the sides and bottom with a rubber spatula. This improves consistency and ensures a smooth, even texture.
Churn: with the machine running, pour the ice cream mixture through the canister and into the ice cream maker. Leave to churn until fluffed up and creamy; depending on your ice cream maker, this can take anywhere from 30-60 minutes.
This ice cream mixture expands and becomes airy as it churns. You’ll know it’s ready when it looks smooth, creamy, and slightly wavy—similar to soft-serve ice cream. Churning time varies depending on your machine and can take anywhere from 30 to 70 minutes.
To check the texture, lift a spoonful. It should be thick enough to stay on the spoon, but still soft. If it looks too thin or starts melting immediately, it needs more time.
If you’re unsure, let it churn for 10 more minutes. Keep in mind that it won’t look like store-bought ice cream at this point—it will still be soft. It only becomes firm and scoopable after a few hours in the freezer.
Stop the machine once the mixture is thick and creamy. If you continue churning beyond that point, the mixture can start losing the air it has built up and may seize, resulting in a dense, heavy texture.
One important note: some ice cream makers are programmed to stop automatically after a fixed time, but that doesn’t always mean the ice cream is ready. If your machine stops and the mixture still looks too soft, simply restart it and continue churning until the texture improves.
Put in the freezer to set: before serving the ice cream or moving it to a container for storing, you have to put it in the freezer to set. To do so, turn off the ice cream maker and:
· remove the removable freezer bowl (still filled with the ice cream) from the ice cream machine
· remove the paddle, scraping any ice cream attached to it back into the ice cream bowl
· place it in the freezer, uncovered
Setting time depends on many factors; see notes below for indicative times.
Serve or store: when it sets, you can serve it directly from the removable freezer bowl or transfer it to an airtight container for longer storage.
The setting time depends on the type of ice cream maker you’re using. Here are the general guidelines:
3–5 hours for machines with removable freezer bowls (these bowls must be pre-frozen before churning)
Under 1 hour for machines with built-in compressors and aluminum bowls
⚠️ Important: Ice cream in aluminum bowls sets quickly. Do not leave it for too long—once fully frozen, it can become extremely hard and difficult to remove without risking scratches to the bowl. Always monitor it closely.
To check if the ice cream is ready, aim for an internal temperature of –11°C (12°F). If you don’t have a thermometer, use this simple test:
Insert a round-tip knife all the way to the bottom of the ice cream:
✔ If it goes in smoothly but meets gentle resistance, it’s ready
✖ If it feels hard on top but soft underneath, it needs more time
✖ If it’s too firm to insert the knife, it’s over-frozen and likely too hard to scoop
If it’s over-frozen, don’t worry—head to the next section for how to bring it back to scoopable.
If the ice cream sits in the freezer in the removable freezer bowl for too long after it has set, it can become too hard to scoop or remove.
To make it scoopable again:
Place the bowl in the refrigerator and allow the ice cream to soften gradually.
Here’s how long that may take:
4–10 hours for removable freezer bowls (pre-freeze models)
1–2 hours for aluminum bowls (from compressor ice cream makers)
Note: These times are approximate and may vary depending on your fridge and the amount of ice cream. Check the texture occasionally as it softens.
Once the ice cream is soft enough to scoop—or its internal temperature reads approximately –11°C (12°F)—you can:
✔ Transfer it to another container and store it in the freezer
✔ Or serve it directly from the bowl
Just be sure to avoid digging into an over-frozen bowl with hard utensils, especially if using a nonstick-coated or aluminum bowl.
Straight after churning, the ice cream has a soft-serve consistency and melts almost instantly on contact. At this stage, it’s too soft to serve neatly or transfer easily—it’s simply too messy to handle.
Freezing the ice cream immediately after churning allows it to set properly. This step brings it to the right texture: scoopable, stable, and easy to portion or transfer into a storage container.
It’s the final step that turns churned ice cream into finished ice cream.
Storing: Transfer the finished ice cream to a lidded container and store it in the freezer for up to one month.
Cover it well to protect it from absorbing any unwanted freezer smells.
Scooping: Like all artisanal-style ice creams, this one freezes hard over time.
To make it scoopable again, place the container in the refrigerator for 45–60 minutes, or until the internal temperature reaches about –11°C (12°F).
Once softened, it’ll scoop cleanly and serve beautifully.
4 Responses
Hi there!
When I found your website I was so excited because I received an ice cream machine for Christmas from my husband & wanted to try learn how to make the best ice cream.
I just found that your recipes are not clear when it comes to making the custard- do I use only half the milk or all of it? Help, please!! Just some clarity on the tempering process would help because my custard curdled….twice!!
Thank you!!
Hello! I am sorry you had trouble during the process.
You warm all of the milk with the sugar, then slowly pour roughly half of the how milk over the egg yolks, while whisking them.
If there is trouble with the egg yolks curdling during the tempering process, do try this: instead of using all the heavy cream to melt the chocolate, use only 2/3 to melt the chocolate (around 200 g; 7 oz). Reserve the rest COLD-from-the-fridge heavy cream to mix with the egg yolks at the beginning of step 2. The cold heavy cream will keep the egg yolks protected when you pour in the warm milk.
Hope this helps! Any questions and comments are welcome!
Hi,
can I use potato starch instead of corn starch? corn is really not popular where I live
In theory you can use potato starch, but the ice cream will likely be gummier, less silky, and less stable over time. If you try it, use a little less potato starch (about 20–25% less than cornstarch by weight), cook it gently, and stop heating as soon as it thickens.